Yeah that’s the only reason I don’t plan on getting one of these types of devices. I’ve got giant hands and anything that fits in my pocket like that is going to require me to angle my thumbs nearly against my palms to use the sticks 😭

Case closed, boys

I’ve never seen the movie. Is the Chihuahua, by chance, from Beverly Hills?

That poor kid. I already was upset thinking about them having to see Mom get arrested. I didn’t even consider the fact that the youngest is probably blaming himself.

A stranger on the internet took the time to write out some really helpful constructive advice to something you’re struggling with, and you’re blowing them off with a pedantic clarification? If you really don’t think there’s anything to take away from that comment because they didn’t get your exact example perfectly right, that could be another reason people are trying to escape conversations with you. It doesn’t sound like you want to have them.

This is some phenomenal advice and I’m afraid the person you gave it to isn’t going to appreciate it in the moment but I want you to know that it’s giving me some thinking.

Seems like people got your questions answered. Just wanna say that those machines (Prusas) are very nice, and not generally cheap, so even if it was a throwaway for someone make sure to get em a 12 pack or something! That’s an awesome gift!

Someone else mentioned gridfinity, that was my first thought too. You can probably find modules for all of the things you listed already made and ready to print.

Once you start with gridfinity, though, you will never stop.

Re: dry. I’m convinced PLA doesn’t care about moisture. Watched a video of a guy that soaked a roll in a tub of water overnight, then printed off the roll with it still in the tub. Looked exactly the same as it did before the soak.

Mileage may vary of course but ever since then I’ve been leaving my PLA out and it’s never once given me trouble (the infused ones a little bit).

Most questions that get posted are the same question but slightly different situation. “Why does my first layer look bad”, “what is causing this weird noise”, “how do I diagnose this error”.

Your use case is interesting. I’ll remember it each time I see an update.

Oh ok, I misunderstood some details. That makes more sense.

I’ll be here in a year or two for your updates!

I remember your first post. Glad that you are still working on putting this workshop together. Excited to read about what you come up with.

If I remember correctly, you use a 3d scanner to get close-enough measurements of your workspace, and design around that? Is there any chance of us getting some pictures of your completed space once things are buttoned up, or would it be too much of a privacy concern? I’m super into confined, efficient workspaces and I’d love to see what kind of solutions you’ve come up with for your specific needs.

Sounds like a plan!

If you have the time, check out a “intro to Klipper” video or something similar, just to get an idea of how useable it is, see if you’re interested. I’m here if you have any questions 👍🏽

Is there any advantage to going the klipper route?

The advantages are innumerable of you are a tinkerer (it looks like you are). If you just want your printer to print stuff and that’s that, marlin is fine, but if you want to get serious about tuning and modifying your printer, Klipper is an inevitability.

Think about the QOL improvement that octoprint provided over running your SD card back and forth from PC to printer. Klipper is that x1000. Write macros to automate things like filament swaps, chamber heating, build plate clearing. Change every aspect of any behavior of the printer by modifying a .cfg file (rather than recompiling marlin firmware.bin files). There’s plugins for Cura to send your g-code directly to the printer (with octoprint you save the file to your PC then upload to octo, with Klipper there’s just a button in Cura to send directly to the printer and start printing).

In short, the only reason to use marlin is “it came on the printer and I don’t have the knowledge to set up Klipper”. Klipper is just better in every way. It’ll take you a couple hours to set up (you have a popular with lots of premade configurations available online), and from the moment you get it going, you’ll wonder what took you so long.

PM me if you have any questions.

I know this is a couple days old, but I have a heavily modified Neptune 3 (non pro) and it needed the bed springs that replaced the plastic spacers. It was very uneven within a month or two of owning it and was constantly shifting.

Bought a pack of springs for maybe 10 bucks on Amazon and, while not as permanent as solid metal spacers and maybe loctite, it lasts much longer than the plastic spacers between needing a relevel, and being able to fine tune it with a screwdriver is a must.

I don’t think that Cura is smart enough to cut STL files apart like that. My guess is that a program like blender would be best to do this, make a shape the size of your printer’s build volume (or slightly smaller), put the part you want to print inside of the shape, then remove everything else.

I’m not familiar with blender but that’s the work flow I would approach with.

I see, I missed that tidbit of the conversation. My bad.

I don’t see myself caring if Hasbro tries to require a “subscription”. Like I said, none of the gaming I’ve done with DND has been through any legitimate channels they offer, I’ve got the PHB and DM guide on my phone and all the games I’ve played are either homebrew or stolen PDFs that work exactly the same way a “subscription” would.

I have been interested in checking out Pathfinder, but honestly don’t care enough to push my friend group towards it. If anyone approaches me with a PF game I’ll join, but not going out of my way to find one.

so I would hope that they would want to switch just to get away from Hasbro.

I’ll say this as a relatively newer player, I don’t care about the company that made the game when I’m trying to find something to play. As a player in 2 campaigns and a baby-DM for another, I think the only money I’ve paid that hasbro would get anything from is a Nolzurs mini I bought before I started making my own.

I’m not saying that people shouldn’t look outside of DND for other RPGs, there’s a ton of other great platforms out there, just trying to offer some perspective. I don’t think the average DnD player really gives a crap about Hasbro (again, not saying they shouldn’t care, just that they don’t), let alone have a desire to change platforms based on the manufacturer.

I see, I did not realize the range of different resin materials. I was led to believe most behave pretty similarly.

I’ve never had the privilege of paying a CMON game, but the sets I’ve seen in stores seem so enticing.

I hope you find a resin that is both affordable and meets your needs! Eventually I’ll probably want something more bendy too, once I get better at painting I probably won’t want my guys to break.

I’ve only been printing for a short time, so sorry if I seen ignorant. But I’m assuming you aren’t a fan of the ABS-like resins? Minis are the bulk of what I’ve printed so far, I’ve done them all in Anycubic grey abs like. A handful of them have taken a topple off the printer shelf (~6 feet / 2m) and so far the only things that have broken are things I don’t think a different material would have stood up to anyways (read: large objects attached with a tiny surface area, warhammer heads, a hand holding a glass orb, I think one cloaked arm). Everything has super-glued back together very easily (though they’re all still unpainted, if they’d been painted the seam would likely be much more visible).

I had a small model (not quite mini sized) printed in standard resin that fell from a much shorter distance and broke in like 3 places so it’s definitely more flexible/ durable than that.

It’s also like $15 USD/L…