If they’re on board that could be their idle ambient temps.

The currents running through them, resistors, etc all generate some heat.

I tend to look at board temps less about the environment and more about how the board is doing.

Is it suddenly running very hot, etc.

As for the extruder it is attached to a thermal mass. So it may take longer to adjust but you did say it’s been sitting there for a bit.

Marketing Consultant: No, King Condiment, you can’t put red in red on an ad. They won’t see it. They’ll wonder why you’re selling a gun to shoot at food.

The King: But it’s great advertising!

Marketing Consultant: No, that’s not a great marketing ad.

The King: But they can still use red for ketchup right?

Marketing Consultant: Of course. And your instructions can tell them which is for which.

The King: It’s so confusing!

Marketing Consultant: It is. And if you had hired us before manufacturing millions of these we could have told you about using another base color with red and yellow grips and triggers. But you didn’t and so here we are.

What’s crazy is that I loved the steam world titles (quest and build were ok).

But I didn’t even know Heist 2 came out. I’ve already wishlisted it for later.

There was something in the manual if I remember correctly. Which you wouldn’t necessarily have if you rented the game.

Edit: just checked and I was wrong. Nothing in the manual. I must have been thinking of another game.

https://www.gamesdatabase.org/Media/SYSTEM/Nintendo_NES/Manual/formated/Castlevania_2-_Simon-s_Quest_-_1988_-_Konami.pdf

Journey is good.

Rime is a good (but emotional) story.

Sounds like the perfect thing to test and iterate and then use that to have something machined in metal.

Of course with some stronger materials it may be fine. But how resilient will the belts be from the tension/stress and is there any risk of injury when they snap?

Yeah… I’m an idiot

Cool. Now do quantum bits so that they’re all simultaneously calculated. Wait… don’t

Or the router, in another state, and the person with access to the closet/server room knows how to push a few buttons at best.

That happens once… and you get misconfigophobia for life.

Klipper is a different beast but once you get it going it’s leaps and bounds ahead.

No more compiling and editing firmware. Since the Klipper firmware itself is built and deployed to the board so the logic of what features, pins, etc can be controlled by your pi.

E.g. the board is no longer the “brains” of the printer but the brain stem. Where the brain (the pi) tells it on pin A “tell this stepper motor to turn this”, on pin J “tell the heater to cycle on” etc.

Basically you download Klipper, look at a printer.cfg for the board you have, and then just use that as a starting point.

Here’s the generic printer.cfg for your new board

https://github.com/Klipper3d/klipper/blob/master/config/generic-creality-v4.2.7.cfg

The real power comes from having the option to use macros for things like START_PRINT and END_PRINT.

For example, when I added a Nevermore fan on an skr mini e3v3 board I just had to wire it, find the “pins for the plug” on the board and then add the necessary config change.

Didn’t work? Comment it out and restart firmware and you’re no worse than it not being there. Adjust, restart, and go.

So where I’d avoid a marlin update because of the hassle of building and updating I now just check for updates, ssh in and build it with a command and update the board over USB.

And that’s just to update the Klipper firmware on the board for whatever fixes/changes are needed for Klipper. For things like new macros or existing items changed around you just update the config and “restart” and it does the rest.

The only thing that you lose with an ender is the screen. Their screens aren’t dumb… they have their own weird firmware. Personally I just use the website and now the moonraker mobile app to control everything and I don’t bother with a screen at all.

The hassle and delay is part of how it works. If there was a seamless catch all then it wouldn’t be feasible to make it secure.

Having a second physical factor, as much as it can be a hassle, is much better than any single factor.

Your password can be breached, brute forced, bypassed if there’s an issue somewhere.

Your biometrics can’t be changed so anything that breaks them (such as the breach of finger prints in databases, etc) makes them moot.

A single physical token can be stolen and/or potentially cloned by some attack in physical proximity (or breach of an upstream certificate authority)

But doing multiple of those at the same time. That’s inordinately much harder to do.

I will say the point/gist of the article is a good one. The variety of types some used here and others used there does make it a hassle to try to wrangle all the various accounts/logins. Especially in their corporate and managed deployment which isn’t saving passwords and has a explicit expiration of credential cache (all good things)

Right. It looks so smooth.

Can even use cylinders to group some circular parts of the model together naturally so that the “glue” points are at the bottom inside the walls where they’re not obvious

Range is 0.7. Not great but not as horrible as it looks in the display.

I’m not familiar with the Neptune and how, if at all, you adjust the bed screws but getting that range nearish to your layer size should do wonders.

Cloud hosting business insists its staff need to be onprem.

Awesome but I wish it was more active. That being said the community is primarily located on the Discord channel as far as I can tell

Some vendors that sell LDO and other kits

https://west3d.com/collections/kits/LDO

https://kb-3d.com/store/151-shop-full-build-kits

There are others and you can check out the discord, YouTube channels like Nero 3D “The Canuck Creator” and “Steve Builds” for more info

Since you mention tweaking/adjusting/etc a Voron may be right for you.

There are kits for sourcing the majority of the stuff and then you build it yourself.

The Afterburner and Stealthburner are great for ABS out of the gate but there are toolheads that can also work with PLA such as DragonBurner.

https://www.vorondesign.com

The entire ecosystem is open especially if you’re using Klipper

The Star Trek movie vibes are strong with this one.