I had new progressive lenses made, but the old ones are still fine and don’t have a scratch. They’re just a bit weak at near distance, but otherwise perfectly serviceable.

So I made new frames for them because I don’t like to throw away things that work.

All assembled, the frames weigh 3.5 grams, and 14 grams with the lenses mounted.

This was printed with a Prusa Mk4 and regular PLA at 0.15 mm layer height. The hinges use simple 10x1 pins - and I worked my magic to print the holes horizontally to the final dimension with interference fit, so no reaming or drilling is necessary. These glasses are straight out of the printer with zero rework.

I think they look pretty good as they are. If anybody notices they’re 3D-printed, I’ll say I’m gunning for that particular style 🙂

The front of the frames prints in 11 minutes and both temples in 12 minutes. I could break and make a new pair every day for the rest of my life and it would still be faster and cheaper than going to Specsavers only once.

  • datendefekt@lemmy.mlEnglish
    1·
    1 month ago

    Actually, there is a company that makes resin printed children’s glasses for about €200 a pop. My son tried them at the opticians and I was impressed by the finish and flexibility. Just to say that 3d printed glasses are really commercially viable.

    • ExtremeDullard@lemmy.sdf.orgOPEnglish
      2·
      1 month ago

      there is a company that makes resin printed children’s glasses for about €200 a pop

      Commercial, high-quality 3D-printed glasses are sold everywhere here in town - including for adults. And they look pretty good too. But I’m more interested in making stuff myself - and for pennies too. What’s the fun in buying ready-made? 🙂

  • gerdesj@lemmy.mlEnglish
    1·
    1 month ago

    That is superb. Sadly my eyes degrade faster than the frames wear out!

    I see you are on the John Lennon specials which makes it a bit easier to model. I haven’t worn circular specs since college (~1990) My current Tesco specials only have lens frame from the nasal bridge clips, over the top to about 5mm below the temple joints.

    Just a thought but you might like to investigate using spring steel for the arms and PLA just for the frames. You could create a jig for joining and heat the ends of the arms up with a brazing torch (kitchen supplies) and sink them into a suitable cylinder close to the temple joint. If you go all in you can make the straight part of the arm rigid and the over ear part flexible with careful heating and cooling and whacking with a hammer!

    Now, that metal work will be comfortable but might be a bit chilly. What about PLA tips over ear instead of steel?

    Anyway, great job. I’m very impressed.